Thia Malan
Dragon’s Back Race 2023: Facing the challenge again!
How did I get here?
It’s 5am on Monday 4 September, almost time for the Dragon’s Back Race 2023.
I am one of 298 runners who gather inside Conwy Castle, waiting to set off on the journey south to Cardiff at 6am. Each and every one of us already has a story and our journey to get here. Now we are eager to share this challenge and epic adventure.
My journey started in March 2021 when I watched ‘The Dragon’s Back Race’ film. I simply had to do it. There is no rhyme or reason for it. I have been a runner all my life and was looking for a new challenge.
As a rookie with only 4 short months of specific prep I was in for a wild ride! I was proud of myself to come away from DBR 2021 with four full days completed without timing out, and a raging runner’s knee that would take 12 months to heal.
I also came away with new friends, a tribe where I feel I belong, incredible memories and a desire to return!
And we are off!
So there I was on 4 September 2023. I felt incredibly lucky, hopeful, excited, terrified and grateful. It was an emotional morning for everyone.
A male voice choir sings us out of the castle. As we move along the city walls, the dawn breaks pink. It is magical. It will be hot later.
Day 1
Conwy to Ogwen
The start is always easy. Legs are fresh and spirits are high. It is very easy to go out too fast. I go out with my poles out and with my mouth closed. Nasal breathing is a great pace regulator for me.
The views are spectacular. I make a point of looking up from time to time to take it in.
The Carneddau offers a pleasant morning and I don’t rush down Pen Yr Ole Wen as I am well ahead of the guide time to get into the support point at Llyn Ogwen. Bev Tucker and Tim Viner from previous years are on the road side, cheering us on! It’s great to see them. Their cheering does not help my left foot plantar fasciitis though, and I have to hike along the tarmac stretch, whilst wondering what I will do as the tarmac increases as the week progresses.
One step at a time, one day at a time. Anything can happen. Just keep moving. Keep smiling, always. It’s mantra time ever so often.
Ogwen to Pen Y Pass
I stop at the support point briefly. It is hot now. I remember Tryfan in the heat in 2021 and how sick I felt. This time I will try to avoid that. So far so good.
Care and attention goes to pace, hydration, electrolytes, food. Steadily the miles are munched and I am on the descent to Pen Y Pass. All goes smoothly until I am queuing to buy a cold drink at the youth hostel. I stupidly left my soft flask with water outside and feel faint. The floor beckons and I lie down before I fall or throw up. A kind soul gets me a pepsi and an orange juice. This and the lie down works wonders and I set off again about 20 minutes later.
Pen Y Pass to Gwastadannas
The distance of 12km can be misleading. The home straight is not straight – it is the Snowdon Horseshoe.
First comes Crib Goch. I get to the base of it with Peter O’Kane, Samantha Lloyd and Sanna Duthie. We stick together. It’s deja vu with Sam. This is where we first met on DBR 2021! This year I feel so much better. Sam and I stay with a terrified Sanna. Sam leads the way, I tuck in behind Sanna. Steve Chamberlain and Nathan Welch did this for me in 2021.
It’s a relief to have Crib Goch behind me, but I am under no illusions about what still lies ahead. The heat is unrelenting and my water supplies are a bit low. I hope to reach Snowdon summit before five to be able to get water there. It was not to be by about 10 minutes, but another kind runner shares some of his with me.
From there it did feel more like the home stretch. The final descent is not as terrifying or long as I remember. My legs are probably just in better condition. I do the last section with Simon Motley and join him for a dip in the stream before hiking the last kilometer into camp. It’s good to think about building in as much recovery as possible for the next day.
I am elated to be in camp just before 8pm. Now for the camp routine: make bed, change, get dragonmail, eat, stretch and massage if time allows, dishes, teeth, loo, sleep.
Heading over Crib Goch ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography
Day 2
Gwastadannas to Cwm Bychan
I’m off to a good start at 6 am. Today will be hot again, but there will be wind on the summits. I ease into the day with a hike and light jog along the road. On the approach to Cnicht I find Sam Lloyd again. We both had a tough time on day 2 in 2021. We decide to go together as long as our paces match. Progress goes well to the summit for more spectacular views, a bum slide down the other side, then over the Moelwyns and onto the Vale of Ffestiniog.
After the water point, there is a long steep tarmac climb, followed by a short forest section and then the section where we both got roasted in 2021. This year it turns into a highlight! We enjoy each other’s company and reach Cwm Bychan almost 2 hours ahead of the cut off time.
The support point is on grass and I take the opportunity to sit on the ground rather than on a chair.
Cwm Bychan to Dolgellau
Sam and I cover good ground whilst chatting away. It’s another warm day, but not as baking and hot as day 1. There is plenty of breeze in places and even more views on higher ground. I fall a bit behind after Llyn Du, but Sam stops for a photo at Rhinog Fawr summit and we descend together. We are moving well until the change to uphill breaks my rhythm. I need to go at my own snails pace again, but get to the top of Rhinog Fach eventually. More views of endless mountains and shimmering seas.
Passing by Llyn Du ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography
Y Lletr to camp
I continue mostly by myself, passing others, others pass me, it’s all a bit of a friendly blur. I am fully present with my own time and pace in the glorious mountains, savouring the lucky feeling.
A little jog is possible to Diffwys summit trig and back to the descent, which goes surprisingly well. Maybe I am not as bad at descending anymore or just too tired to tense up. On the forest track I see angels. They have set up a bonus refreshment point with water and pepsi, straight from heaven if there is such a place.
On the tarmac section I am in a game of tag with the Bovey brothers. They are great company, upbeat and positive. Peter O’Kane catches me up across the bridge. It’s always good to see his familiar friendly face.
Hiking, jogging and chatting we get into camp just after 8pm. There is time for a wash in the river before the rest of camp routine.
Day 3
Dolgellau to Llanllwyda
I wake up tired.
My foot is on fire and my start is slow. There seems to be endless tarmac. Then finally uneven terrain and by the time I reach Cadair Idris summit all plantar fasciitis pain has vanished. I’m slower than in 2021 and it is hotter. Descending seems to be my stronger suit now and I enjoy it.
I take it easy on the descent into and along the baking valley. It’s a quick stop at the water point to refill, eat a bit and cool down by sitting in the little stream.
A sunny day 2 ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography
Llanllwyda to Machynlleth
I chat along with Rachel for a bit in an upbeat hike/jog fashion. Her aim is to reach the support point before cut-off at 16:15 and stop. We need to move steadily. I cannot keep up as we start the ascent towards the steep ascent up Tarren Hendre, where my pace slows again to that of a snail.
On the descent I keep up with Hugh Lovatt. We stay together until he moves ahead on the way up Tarren Y Gesail, a brutally timed out and back in the heat of the day. Watch out, it can mess with your head and it’s messing with mine.
Even though I feel relief with every pain free step downhill to Machynlleth, it seems too far. When I reach the bottom, I break and sobs escape from me. It is a day of sweat and tears, so far. Ian gives me a hug and company into Machynlleth where I drink pop and eat pasties in an air-conditioned shop. It’s quite amazing how much this changes the way I feel!
Why, you have to know why….
The support point is busy. There are lots of hatchlings who have now finished for the day. Because I prefer to sit on the ground, I find a spot under the tree, rather than under the erected canopies.
Shall I stay of shall I go? Machynlleth brought me to this place in 2021 as well. I decided then to continue with the ITB pain that came on during the last descent. It was fairly straightforward because I felt energetic. There was also no official hatchling option to choose.
This is different. I am exhausted and conflicted. Getting a ride to the finish, two half days in the heat and finishing in Cardiff is an attractive option. However, I haven’t timed out and I am not injured. Tiredness should be expected. Why am I doing this? Thanks to Ian and Sean, I find my why afresh, evolved. It’s fresher than unfinished business from 2021. I am curious and my enquiry is whether I can actually do this thing, this crazy epic adventure called Dragon’s Back Race.
With my goal clear again, I get ready to go.
Machynlleth to Ponterwyd
My newly clarified and simplified ‘why’ does not make me any faster. My energy levels continue to fluctuate. All I can do is go with the flow and keep smiling as I push on.The afternoon light is absolutely spectacular and I feel that incredibly lucky feeling again.
On the ascent up Pumlumon Fawr, I am relieved to see some head torches behind me. Ousmane reaches the summit with me. We decide to run together through the darkness. About a mile from camp his friend and Nathan Welch catches up with us. I fall behind again. Time seems to pass too quickly today and I am definitely moving slowly. It’s the fastest I can do, and I get in at 21:59:51. If it wasn’t for the extra half hour granted due to the extreme heat, this would have been a very close shave with a 10pm cutoff!
The team at the arrival on day three were amazing. Whenever they race their Dragon’s Back, I will be there to cheer them on in whatever way I can!
When I got to my tent, my bed was already made. Thank you Cat Mills!
Day 4
Ponterwyd to Elan Village Support point
I’m up at 4:10am, 10 minutes later than the previous 2 days. I had hip and pelvis pain in the night that made me cry in my sleep. My tent mates are concerned and also very happy that I made it into camp in time. Tent life was a top part of the journey with top tent mates.
Somehow I make it to the starting pen before the course opens. Not sure if I’m fully awake yet, I start out slowly. It feels like a long steep climb, but of course it’s mild compared to the previous days. Mercifully it’s a cooler day, finally!
It’s a rolling tussock, track and tarmac journey to the support point. I can actually run when we get to the runnable bits and jog along for a bit with another fellow South African.
It’s a chatty morning for me and it is lovely to have so many other women runners out on the course! By the time that I reach the Support Point the day feels rather warm again and a good spray down is very welcome.
Encountering the artist in residence out on course ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography
Elan Village to Rhandirmwyn bridge
With the tussocks behind me, it is now mostly tarmac or gravel to camp, with the biggest off-road bit up and down Drygarn Fawr. It’s a really good day and I enjoy the afternoon as the sky remains clear and the views remain huge.
I spend a lot of time by myself and have memories from 2021 playing through my mind as I pass through the landscape. This was my swan song in 2021 with quite a few tears and even more pain. I relish the ability to run all the way down hill to camp and arrive at about 19:30 or so.
The final stretch of the day along tarmac ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography
Evening and night 4
Once again there is ice cream on arrival and I repeat my legs on chair routine.
There is a pub across the bridge. Today it’s too far and there is too little time. I opt for a wash in the river. The water is really cold and the midges are out. I am being slightly eaten, I head off for a delicious meal, dragon mail and a bit of unwinding. Every word of encouragement really means a lot and makes a difference, especially when the day was long.
I’m tucked up in bed at 10pm. But rather than sleep occurring, the burning hip and pelvic pain is back, worse than before. I crawl out of the tent and take myself to see the medics.
Between Flick the medic and Laura the physio, I am practically healed by morning. They did a miracle with a pain killer that packed a punch and some k-tape. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
Taking a much-needed break ©No Limits Photography
Day 5
Rhandirmwyn bridge to A4067 Support point
Day 5 dawns. It is a big one. It is my home turf. I know these hills and I absolutely love running on them! Additionally, I am not going home today and I feel amazing. All through the morning routine I struggle to contain my emotions. I think my endorphin levels are off the scale. I have no blisters, my muscles are not desperately stiff, my feet are hardly swollen and I had 5 hours solid sleep. All of this makes me feel so happy that I want to cry!
Ready for another epic day ©No Limits Photography
I leave with the first group out of camp. We have ten miles of mostly tarmac to get to Llandovery and the bakery on the corner. It is another perfectly hot day that unfolds and I make the most of the cool morning hours.
I run or hike mostly with Sally, Hayley and Peter to the bakery where I pick up a cold sugary pop and two croissants before carrying straight on. There is a long undulating tarmac section before we turn off up and over a small hill, through a small forest and then along Usk reservoir dam wall. It is a perfect day to spend by the water, or better still, in the water. The surface of the reservoir is a perfect mirror in the late morning sun.
Stocking up on some important snacks ©No Limits Photography
On top of the world
I continue to feel amazing as I start the ascent towards Fan Brycheiniog. We are in an oven. I slow down, sip water regularly and duly take two salt tablets every hour. It is glorious along the top with expansive views, a slight breeze and runnable underfoot.
On the way down the steep steps to Llyn Y Fan Fawr my whole being is in song. Day 5 was the first day I missed in 2021. I’ve been looking forward to day 5 for 2 years and could not have imagined that I would feel this good. It literally feels like day 1-4 was the training, today is THE DAY and day six will be the recovery run to Cardiff.
Down down down the grassy slopes. Even with ‘slightly’ shredded quads this is still fun. There is a gushing stream in the valley for a cooling cap dip, then up and over a hump and I reach the support point with about 3 hours till cut-off time!
A stunning day through the Brecon Beacons ©No Limits Photography
A4067 to Pont ar Daf Water point
It is hot and the hill is steep. The route goes straight up Fan Gyhirych in full sunshine.
I run when I can, hike in between, and rest when I have to. There is plenty of water for dipping my hat. In the valley between Fan Nedd and Fan Llia there is the perfect dipping pool right on the route. I decide to indulge in a full body immersion. It is heavenly!
I go up Fan Llia rather slowly, but steadily. Up down, up down it goes till the descent off Fan Fawr to Storey Arms and then Pont ar Daf.
Pont ar Daf to Blaen -y-Glyn
The Water point was quiet when I got there. Owen Jackson (20), the youngest participant, is the only other runner there. We set off together, about an hour and 15 minutes before the cut-off time. Owen is less than half my age and I go less than half his speed.
Up and downing continues on the ridge line over Cribyn and Fan y Big. Again, we are a band of women on the hills with Sally Minchella, Margarida Bagao and Martina Poelzelbauer. The sunset behind us is spectacular as we keep moving along the ridge towards Carn Pica. I find it hard not to keep stopping to look back. Margarida calls from ahead of me that there is no time for sunset gazing, we have to keep moving.
I get my head torch out for the final descent of the day. It’s steep and then slippery. I earn a muddy bottom before reaching the Caerfanell Valley. I decide to mostly hike the rest of the way into camp, feeling satisfied with day 5 and optimistic for day 6.
Day 6
Blaen-y-Glyn to Trelewis support point
Dry bag packing is swift. I just want to get this done! The day’s course is easy compared to the previous 5 days. Nevertheless, I stop myself from celebrating early.
Remember: One step at a time, one day at a time. Anything can happen. Just keep moving. Keep smiling, always.
It is another glorious morning. The sunrise is pink behind me. I stop for a moment to take it in. The route takes us along the hilltops, above the cloud inversions that lie in the valleys below. Part of me envies the life of sheep. They can just hang out on the hills day in and day out.
A lot of the course is on tarmac along the Taff trail. It’s easy to jog , shuffle or hike along. Merthyr Tydfil Park run is in full swing as I run along that section of the trail.
There are wild strawberries and blackberries along the way. They make small delicious snacks.
I make it into the support point in Trelewis in good time.. The spray down with cold water is definitely my favourite part of the stop.
Ready to head out on the final day ©No Limits Photography
Trelewis to Groes Wen water point
It’s a pleasant day with lots of brief chit chats as I go along. I am enjoying my own company and have reached a zen-like place, I think.
There is nothing to do except be in the moment. It occurs to me that Dragon’s Back Race appears to have cured my plantar fasciitis! Time will tell.
The water point offers some magic. I have the most delicious lime ice lolly that I will eat in my life. It can only taste this good at this stage of Dragon’s Back Race. Wow!!
Groes Wen water point to Cardiff Castle
Onwards, with only 16 km to go, apparently. It’s mostly downhill to rejoin the Taff trail in Cardiff. It brings the surprise of a good friend waiting on the route to cheer me on. It really lifts me to see them. The end is so close now, but not in sight.
I think I’m done running at this point so decide to just hike it in and savour the final stretch of epic adventure. Sam Lloyd jogs up along me and we hike together for a bit. I tell her that I’m hiking it in before she jogs on. I would actually love to pick up a jog with her, but I am simply spent of something. It might have been energy or will power or both.
The city is so busy with people all around. I look forward to reaching Cardiff castle, but I am somehow already missing the remoteness of the mountains. Then I am there. I stop for a moment to gather myself before jogging the last little bit in the castle to the finish line.
The finish
My son Matthew is there with his good friend Tom. His face is beaming and he runs alongside to meet me at the finish. Andrea finished just before me and grabs me for a hug. After some quick photos are taken, I rush off to see Matthew. I am immensely grateful for this incredible support from friends.
There are lots of other runners from the week at the finish. It’s almost overwhelming. We find a quiet spot in the shade to sit down. My dear friends get me drinks and food.
Whilst waiting for the presentation a bit later on, I sit next to a runner I never met during the week. He is called Hugh. When I asked him whether he did the full course and whether he had a good week, he answers yes and yes. He also enquires about my week. Next thing he gets up to receive the winning prize!!!!
Afterglow
I am still catching up with all that happened that marvellous week and I love it. The Dragon’s Back Race is both an individual and a collective journey and I will always feel lucky to be a part of it.
It was a spectacular week ©Reuben Tabner | Bib Number Photography