Introduction

On May 22nd 2017, I was in Conwy Castle for my very first time, way outside my comfort zone and about to set off on an adventure down the spine of Wales.

I was a rookie – a total newbie in the mountain-running scene, and I didn’t have a clue what I was in for. The only thing I was certain of was that miracles had to happen if I was to make it all the way to the finish line in day 5. But I was prepared and ready to see how far I could get.

What I wasn’t prepared for, was running around like a fly in a bottle on the Glyder Fach looking for the checkpoint, eventually finding it, just to get timed out at Pen-Y-Pass. So I cried. Got one of those amazing volunteer-hugs. And ran the straight way to camp with some other ‘timed-out runners’.

There I had a minor break down in the tent, doubting whether I belonged in the race. Was this sport just too big for me? Was I completely wrong in thinking that this was something within my capabilities? And right there and then, I learned what makes this race so special. Your tent mates. 7 other wonderful women convinced me, that of course this was for me. Of course I belonged in this sport. Of course I belonged in this race.

Right there and then, I fell in love with this race. I stayed and had an amazing week, doing a mixture of whole and half days, and learned so much about mountain running and about myself.

So, on May 20th 2019 I was back and this time I made it all the way to the finish on my own two feet. I was a dragon slayer! And I was now ready to move on and challenge myself on other races. To explore other landscapes. To chase other dreams.

And then Shane Ohly moved the race to September and added a day, so the race now covered the whole of Wales, and finished in Cardiff Castle. Which meant that I hadn’t really done the race then, had I? I had ‘only’ done the ‘easy’ 5 day version, right? So, I just had to come back and do this new version of the race. There was no way around it.

On September 5th 2022, I was back in Conwy Castle, setting off on a journey south to Cardiff Castle.

Day 1

From Conwy to Nant Gwynant over the Carneddau, Glyderau and Snowdon Massif

Oh, how I love this route and this day with its gnarly terrain, scrambling and unrelenting climbs and descents.

The weather gave us clear skies and the sun came up just as I hit the first checkpoint in Conwy Mountains. It was an absolutely amazing day with stunning views and no navigational errors (if it’s misty on the Glyderau I tend to get a bit challenged).

The wind was strong and with a heads up from the water support point team in Pen-Y-Pass that it would pick up during the afternoon, it was a bit intimidating to scramble up to Crib Goch. The ridge was done almost crawling but damn, I loved every minute of it.

The rain came once I had passed Snowdon and thunder started to come closer during the last descent so luckily, I came through before the runners were de-routed off the mountain for safety reasons.

51km - 5126m climbed- 14 hours and 23min

Day 2

From Nant Gwynant to Dolgellau through the gnarly Moelwynion and Rhinogydd.

I woke up and didn’t feel great. I had a headache and just felt a bit off. But I ate well in the morning and had a short chat with Matt from the Media team before I headed off.

If you watch the film clip with me from the daily film, you can see how nervous I was for the day. I have no good memories from day 2 from my two previous completions of this day, and not feeling good didn’t help for sure.

The day started sunny and OK but going up Cnicht - the first climb of the day - I knew I was in trouble and had a real rough day ahead if I couldn’t turn things around. I just simply didn’t have any energy. Despite eating well, I was painstakingly slow on the climbs. But I did have a bright moment, picking the clever line down from Cnicht. Thanks to Lowri on the Media team to bring that highlight in the daily film so the whole day wasn’t a complete disaster.

But it couldn’t change that I had an utterly off day. I reached the water support point with 40min to spare to the cut off, but had nothing more in the tank to give. I got a very much needed hug from the amazing volunteers, had a short cry and continued to fight for reaching the Support Point in time.

But it was over for the day. I timed out by more than an hour. We all have off days once in a while, but there are no rooms for mistakes like this when you’re up against the Welsh Dragon.

I got driven back to camp by the event crew, where the loveliest surprise awaited me. Two good friends of mine were working on the event and hadn’t told me as they wanted to surprise me. Isn’t that the best?

37km - 1.956m climbed - 9 hours 24min

*On the way up Cnicht ©Bib Number Photography*

Day 3

From Dolgellau to Ceredigion over the mighty Cadair Idris and into the Cambrian Mountains of Mid Wales

I was so uncertain what had happened to me on day 2. Did I have some illness in me? Would I have yet another miserable day, chasing the cut offs all in vain?

I didn’t want yet another day like that now that the dragon trophy was gone for me, so I chose to run half a day and to be inserted at the Support Point in Machynlleth.

So, the day started with coffee. Lots of it. And cake. And snacks. We got to Machynlleth early and had loads of time to eat and rest. And so we did.

We were sent off at 13:00 and I was flying from the start. Climbing any hill like I’m usually doing, ran the flats easily and just feeling great.

Yes. I was back.

And then suddenly I find myself running with Rafaël. The same Rafaël I found myself running with from time to time in 2017. And in 2019. Here we were again. Sharing kms and stories. The world is a huge place, but our sport is just one big family.

Towards the end the weather turned wet and windy (again) and CP 11 on the last summit was a great highlight for our little group.

From there on I don’t know what hit Marcel, but he was hammering down. And I kept him company. Who would reject some fun on a short day out. And fun it was for sure.

And the bonus of a half day - except the coffee - is that you get a change to enjoy camp life instead of just surviving. To chat a bit with people, do your admin in daylight and sit a bit outside in the sun.

Fab day - exactly what I needed. I was ready to run full days for the remaining week.

25km - 1.360m climbed - 4 hours and 14 min

Day 4

Through the Elan Valley

I have so many good memories of this route and this year, more were added. I really like this route. Every bit of it.

The grassy sections with its ‘I’ll break your ankle if you take even one wrong step’ tussocks.

The road sections which always seem to go slightly uphill.

The short but treacherous boggy parts that will swallow your whole leg and keep your shoe if you don’t take care (just ask Rafaël about that. And how it feels to dig through a bog to retrieve your shoes).

And the 10km road at the end that can suck your will to live. But I like it and I had a great day. It’s about choosing your attitude. Will you let the route dictate your day? Or are you in charge of the day and how you respond to what happens?

And, as every day, the volunteers played a huge role. Rumour had spread that Ian at the water support point had upgraded his costume from a hat to……. well……the guy was now riding around on an inflated dragon.

69km - 2182m climbed - 12 hours 34min

*Kirsten taking the brutal tarmac in her stride ©Bib Number Photography*

Day 5

Traversing from the Black Mountains and into the Brecon Beacons National Park

This day and route were new to me from when I did the race in 2019. Back then, day 5 was a fairly easy day – this has definitely changed now.

This race is now something quite different than previously and the dragon will swing its tail and flick you off the mountains if you’re not paying attention.

And wow. What a day they have made! Just wow.

Beautiful but totally brutal. I felt good and strong, climbed well, ran well, didn’t spend too much time in the bakery in the morning, and really enjoyed myself. The weather was a bit grey, which gave both amazing sceneries in the mist and made you cherish the small moments when the clouds opened, and you got a peak of one after another stunning view.

Despite the day being really long, I was up for some fun on the last descent, when the wonderful Jane Gould started the engine on a ‘pain train’ and hammered down the last descent. Once we reached the road and the last few km, we kept up the speed and – oh man – it felt so good to actually run properly with some good movement.

We hammered on and ended up with a kind of sprint finish overtaking two guys on the 20m. That was so dumb. But damn, it was fun. Thanks for a lovely end of an amazing day, Jane.

74km - 3.477m climbed - 15 hours and 3min

*Race winner, James Nobles, helps Kirsten on a tricky river crossing on Day 5 ©No Limits Photography*

Day 6

To Cardiff Castle

The morning started out in the rural farmland, but this was clearly less wild and more farmed thr further south we moved. We had a long stretch around Merthyr Tydfil where we share the path with the local dog walkers and people living their everyday life. Cardiff and civilisation were slowly but surely pulling me in.

Somewhere between the support point and the water point, we got through parts of Wales you don’t see on the post cards. Rough, rural and remote. It’s not all roses and fairy tales. Some people are just making a living. Just getting through one day at a time. Dismal and without the energy that had carried me through so many landscapes on my journey down through the country.

So, reaching the water support point and being greeted by the lovely volunteers was a much needed boost of energy. Once again, it showed that it is so much about the people you surround yourself with.

The finish itself was great but as the country was in mourning due to the loss of their Queen, all partying and gathering was cancelled.

But there were still a nice large crowd clapping and cheering the runners in and – to be honest – if I were crossing that finish line for a dragon trophy, I think I would have cried. So amazing when all these strangers support you. What a race this is!

66km - 1.300m climbed - 11 hours and 47min

Epilogue

What a week that was!

Despite not coming home with another dragon trophy, I had an amazing week, learned a lot about myself, made new friends along the way and came home with stories to tell.

But I still haven’t done the whole journey. Will I come back one day to do that?

You bet I will!

I will not be on the start line in 2023. After so many years of being almost obsessed with this race, I need to spend my summers on other races. To go an explore other places, to embrace new adventures and chase other dreams.

But at some point, I will be back, giving it another go at putting these 6 amazing, beautiful and challenging days together. To make it from Conwy Castle to Cardiff Castle on my own two feet.

Kirsten Isak